Serger FAQ
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Q:
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What is a serger?
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A:
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A serger sews the seam, trims the seam allowance and overcasts the fabric edge in one step. It provides a professional finish that is comparable to ready-to-wear. It sews at almost twice the speed of a conventional sewing machine, saving sewing time. It does not replace a sewing machine but you can do 75-90% of your sewing on a serger. |
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Q:
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The serger intrigues me, but I am not sure I will be able to learn to operate it.
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A:
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- There are several resources available to assist you in learning to use your serger. A comprehensive instruction manual, a "Let's Get Started Guide" and instructional video are included with the purchase of Simplicity sergers.
- Contact your local colleges, schools and fabric stores for information on classes that may be offered.
- Simplicity sewing educators are also available, Monday through Friday, 9:00 am - 4:30 pm Central Time, to assist you with the operation of your serger or sewing machine. CALL 800-335-0025.
- Browse your local book store or go online and look for a
BEGINNING serger book. Look for one that has good color photos and detailed explanations, and covers a variety of sergers.
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What else can I do with my serger besides overcast fabric edges?
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There are many ways you can incorporate your serger into your sewing. Use four thread stitching for seaming woven and knit fabrics as well as gathering. Serging with three threads is ideal for seaming nylon tricot, serging patchwork and narrow and rolled edge hemming. A two-thread stitch produces beautiful decorative flatlocking, invisible blind hemming and delicate pintucks. |
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Why do the threads get tangled and break when I start to serge?
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- Check how the machine has been threaded. Your serger is color-coded for easy threading. Each of the thread guides is marked with a color to correspond with the proper tension dial. Inside the machine cover is a color-coded threading chart and, of course, the printed instruction manual contains detailed diagrams.
- Threading sequence is very important to form stitches properly. Start with the upper looper, the green colored thread path first. Thread the lower looper, the blue colored thread path next. Thread the needles last. It doesn't matter in which order you thread the right or left needle.
- Once your serger is threaded, be sure to slide all four threads under the back of the presser foot, lower the foot and begin to serge making sure a thread chain is forming.
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Is there an easy way to adjust the tension settings?
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- It is easiest to learn about serger tension settings by threading the machine in 4 colors of thread matched to the color coding of the thread paths. Turn all of the dials to 4, then go ahead and experiment. You can’t harm the machine by turning tension dials.
- The upper looper is the green thread path and lower looper is the blue thread path. The left needle is color-coded orange and the right needle is color-coded yellow.
- When adjusting tension settings you’ll find that you may need to adjust the dials by more than just one number. Be aware that each tension setting affects the others. Adjust tension dials one at a time and test stitch before making another adjustment.
- A tension adjustment chart is in your instruction manual. Use it as a guide but don’t be concerned if your settings are somewhat different than the chart. Each machine has it’s own personality and settings will vary from machine to machine.
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Q:
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Help! My stitching looks inconsistent.
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- The upper and lower looper thread should interlock right over the cut edge of the fabric. The needle threads should form a straight row of stitches on the topside and be barely visible on the backside.
- If fabric is puckering or the threads appear to be pulling, that is an indication that tension settings are too tight. Loosen the tension dials, one at a time, by turning to a lower number.
- If the thread is too loose and hanging off the edge of the fabric you may need to tighten the looper settings. However, it is normal for the threads to hang off the edge slightly when using a narrower stitch width setting. When your stitch width is at its widest the threads will interlock right over the edge of the fabric.
- If your seam looks as if it is about to come apart, this is a symptom of loose needle tension. The needle tensions will need to be adjusted. If using two needles, gradually tighten your left needle tension (orange). The right needle tension should be set 1 or 2 numbers lower than the left needle tension.
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Q:
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My serger is threaded correctly but it will not sew a chain at all.
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Refer to your instruction book to make sure you are using the correct style and size of needles in your serger. Simplicity serger model 350 uses 15x1, standard sewing machine needles, size 11 or size 14. We recommend the Schmetz brand. Also make sure the needles are not damaged and that they are fully inserted into the needle shaft. The flat part of the needle should be placed to the back of the machine. |
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My fabric won't feed through under the presser foot.
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- Make sure you clean the area around your feed dogs, knives, feed dogs. Use a soft machine brush or canned air. Even a small piece of lint/thread can jam the machine.
- If your fabric is extremely thin (such as chiffon), you may need to adjust your presser foot regulator so it's a little tighter. But be sure to adjust if back for other materials.
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My threads are hanging off the edge of the fabric and doesn't meet the edge.
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This is called "feathering". You will need to adjust your stitch WIDTH. Each serger is different, so please consult your manual on where the knob is found. Do not confuse it with your stitch length. The stitch WIDTH knob on the Simplicity sergers is usually found inside the covers, under the front of the needle plate. You can tell how you are adjusting the width by the small black indicator that is just on top of the needle plate. |
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My stitch width knob is right at 4 and I've moved it down as far as it will go, but my stitches are still loose.
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When you adjust the stitch width knob, you should be able to see the black width indicator on top the plate move to the right or left. (depending on if you are moving the wheel up/down). To make the width wider (to get rid of loose , overhanging stitches, you should move it to the right. Sometimes, if not used often, the wheel can get tight. You may need to drop a little machine oil on each side of the knob and let it sit a few moments to loosen the wheel. When you adjust the width, the small black indicator should be able to move almost all the way to the edge of the needle plate on the right. |
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I hear a clicking sound as I serge and my stitches are consistant.
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If you hear a clicking noise as you serge, there is a strong possibility that you have bent a needle or even a looper. Try changing both needles first. Make sure BOTH needles (if using both) are the same brand, size, and type.
If this does not correct the issue, you may need to contact a service technician to replace your loopers. Loopers are closely timed and we do not encourage changing them yourself. |
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