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Making a Bound Buttonhole
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Bound buttonholes give a polished look to coats and jackets that quietly proclaims tailoring expertise. To insure perfect results, make a trial buttonhole on the same number of fabric layers as your garment for practice.
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| Step 1: Mark buttonhole position and
length on WRONG (interfaced) side of fabric. Thread-trace buttonhole position, extending the thread
tracing beyond end markings. The thread-traced markings should resemble a ladder. |
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| Step 2: Cut a self fabric patch for each buttonhole
on straight grain, 2" (5cm) wide and 1" (2.5cm) longer than the finished buttonhole. Make a center line
horizontally across the length of the patch. With RIGHT sides together, baste the center of the patch
along ladder rungs with ends extending 1/2" (1.3cm) beyond ladder sides.
TIP: To create a bit of flair, consider cutting buttonhole patch from contrasting fabric.
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| Step 3: On WRONG side, mark lines 1/8" (3mm) above
and below buttonhole marking, using transfer pencil.
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Step 4: Using a small machine-stitch,
start sewing along one long side of the buttonhole, following pencil lines, being careful to end stitching
exactly at thread-traced ends. Do not stitch across ends, back-stitch or pivot at corners. Bring thread
ends to WRONG side and tie in a knot.
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Step 5: Snip between the two stitching
lines and clip diagonally to corners, as shown. Be careful not to clip through machine stitching. Add a
dot of seam sealant (such as Fray CheckTM) to corners, and allow to dry.
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Step 6: Pull patch through opening to WRONG side of
front. This opening should form a perfect rectangle. Roll edges of opening between your fingers until each
seam is at the edge of the opening. Press so that none of the patch shows on the OUTSIDE.
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Step 7: To form buttonhole lips, fold each long side
of the patch over the opening, so that the folds meet exactly at the center.
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Step 8: On OUTSIDE, whip-stitch buttonhole lips
together along fold lines and press in place. Whip-stitches should remain in place until garment is completed.
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| Step 9: To secure buttonhole lips and keep them from
shifting, with front RIGHT side up, fold it back out of the way until you can sew the end of the patch and
the triangle (formed by clipping corners in step 5) together. Using small machine stitches, stitch across
the base of the triangle, catching patch. Trim end to 1/4" (6mm). Repeat on other end. |
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Step 10: Stitch horizontal seam allowance of buttonhole
and patch together, just inside the original stitching. Trim patch to 1/4" (6mm). Repeat on other seam.
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Finishing Your Bound Buttonhole
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Step 11: Transfer buttonhole markings to
the WRONG (interfaced) side of front facing, and thread-trace markings, same as for bound
buttonhole (see step 1). Cut a bias patch of silk organza or lightweight matching fabric 2" (5cm)
wide and 1" (2.5cm) longer than the measurement of the buttonhole. Mark a center line horizontally
along the patch. With RIGHT sides together, place patch on facing, over thread-traced markings and baste (see step 2).
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| Step 12: Using small stitches, start stitching
at the middle of one side, stitching a scant 1/8" (3mm) from center basting and tapering stitching at
ends. Take one stitch across the end, pivot and continue along remaining side. Overlap stitches at
starting point. Remove basting. |
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Step 13: Slash between stitching lines, being
careful to not clip stitching at ends. Add a drop of seam sealant (such as Fray CheckTM) to ends of
opening, and allow to dry.
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Step 14:Pull patch through to WRONG side. Gently “snap" along
the bias of patch to create a smooth slit opening. Press.
TIP: If you prefer, trim edges of patch within 1/4" (6mm) of opening. |
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| Courtesy of Simplicity.com.
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