|
Working With Satin Fabrics
It seems that all year long, satin remain the fabric of choice for special
occasions. Wedding dresses & accessories, prom fashions, holiday
party dresses and other special occasion designs depend on this smooth-surfaced,
shimmering fabric for a look of elegance and drama. Since it's a fabric
you probably don't sew every day, it makes sense to review some simple
guidelines to make the most of your one-of-a-kind outfit:
Preparation:
- Use a double thickness cutting layout, right sides together.
- Use a "with nap" cutting layout – satins tend to shade in different directions.
- Pin within the seam allowances only, using fine pins
- Mark with dressmaker's chalk, as fabric-marking pens tend to bleed
into the fabric, and wax dressmaker's carbon may leave spots.
- Cut with scissors with a serrated edge or a rotary cutter for a clean,
precise cut.
Sewing:
- Test a standard universal point needle in Lightweight size, such
as a 70/10 H (Schmetz) or a sixe 10 (Singer) If runs or pulls result,
try a lighter weight Microtex needle with a sharp point.
- Use standard or fine cotton-wrapped polyester thread, or a lingerie
thread.
- Set your machine for a slightly smaller stitch length than
usual – about 10 to 15 stitches per inch.
- Increasing the pressure on the presser
foot may be helpful with some lightweight satins.
- Use a small, single-hole
throat plate when sewing straight seams. This prevents toe fabric from
being “swallowed” into the machine. A
narrow straight stitch foot and / or flat-bottom presser foot may also
be helpful. If you do not have these machine attachments, consider
moving the needle to the far left to provide support on three sides
of the fabric.
- Interfacing options include sew-in wovens or nonwovens.
Also consider organza or organdy for lightweight satins.
- Sew plain
seams. A French seam is also suitable
for straight seams, but not for curves.
Finishing:
- If finishing seams with a serger, use lightweight thread or woolly
nylon thread to prevent thread imprints on the fabric face.
- If the garment is underlined, the hems can be hand
sewn; otherwise, the hand stitches will show on the right side. Silk
organza is a great underlining for satins because it has a soft hand
but will support the weight of a hem.
- Press satins with a warm, dry iron, preferably on the wrong side
of the fabric. If you must press on the right side, be sure to use
a press cloth.
- Avoid steam, as satins tend to water-spot.
Press seams open over a seam roll or seam stick, or insert paper beneath
the seam allowances to prevent ridged from forming on the face of the garment. |