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Sewing Sheer Fabrics
When you think of soft, pretty, feminine fashion for everyday as well
as special occasions, sheer fabrics almost always come to mind. Sheer
fabrics like chiffon, organza and voile have also become popular year-round
choices for home decorating, from window valances and bed canopies to
elegant table dressings and chair drapes. While sheers may require a
bit more attention than most fabrics, yet you can successfully create
the light, airy looks you love by following a few easy guidelines:
Layout:
- Use a single or double thickness layout with right sides together.
- Use a "without nap" layout.
- A cutting surface with a contrasting color will help you get the
best view of your sheer.
- Soft sheers will slip easily off grain, especially when cut on the bias. Use pushpins to anchor the fabric to a padded cutting surface. Insert pins along the selvage and across the cut edge of the crosswise grain.
- Pin only within the seam allowances, especially on crisp sheers. Extra fine pins are suitable on crisp sheers, but may easily fall out of soft sheers. Insert pins at more frequent intervals than usual.
Cutting:
- Use scissors with serrated blades or a rotary cutter to reduce fabric slippage as you cut.
Sewing:
- Use a standard universal point needle in a light to medium weight
size, such as size 70/10 H to 80/12 H (Schmetz) or size 10 to 12 (Singer)
- Stitch with fine cotton-covered polyester thread, or try lingerie
thread.
- Set your machine for a slightly smaller stitch length than usual – about
10 to 15 stitches per inch.
- Increasing the pressure on the presser foot may be helpful with some
lightweight sheers.
- Use a small, single-hole throat plate when sewing straight seams.
This prevents toe fabric from being "swallowed" into the machine. A
narrow straight stitch foot and / or flat-bottom presser foot may also
be helpful.
- If you do not have these machine attachments, consider moving the
needle to the far left to provide support on three sides of the fabric.
- If needed, substitute organza (for soft sheers) or organdy (for crisp
sheers) in place of a commercial interfacing.
- Seam options for sheers include a double-stitched seam and French seam .
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