| What are darts?
Darts are construction details that shape fabric to the curves of the
body. Darts can be straight (for an easy fit) or curved (for a closer-to-the-body
fit). Darts are typically found in the bust, waist and hip areas, where
the body is the most contoured. |
How do I make a straight dart?
The standard straight dart starts at a seam line and tapers to nothing at
its tip. To construct this dart: With rights sides together, fold the fabric
through the center of the dart, matching the markings and the stitching
lines. Place pins at right angles to the stitching line. Stitch the dart
from the wide end to the point, removing the pins as you go. |
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| What if the dart has two points?
A double-pointed straight dart is made exactly like a standard straight
dart, except that you start at the center of the dart and stitch to one
tip. Repeat for the other end, overlapping a few stitches in the center
of the dart. Clip the dart at its widest part. This clip allows the dart
to spread open a bit so that it lies flat.
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How do I avoid a bubble at the tip of my dart?
As you stitch to the point, take the last few stitches right
on the fold. Leave the thread ends long enough to tie in a knot. To tie,
loop the threads into a half knot, and then insert a pin into the loop
so that its tip is at the tip of the dart. Pull the thread ends until
the knot tightens against the tip of the pin. Remove the pin and clip
the thread ends, leaving 1/4" to 1/2" (6mm to 1.3cm)
tails.
What about curved darts?
Curved darts give a closer-to-the-body fit. Because the dart
is curved, it is important to stitch its shape accurately. To do this,
you will need to mark the entire stitching line (broken line) and any
dots before you begin to sew. Use any marking method that is suitable
for your fabric. When you are ready to stitch, fold the fabric right sides
together through the center of the dart, matching the stitching lines
and the markings. For a single-pointed curved dart, stitch from the widest
part to the tip. For a double-pointed curved dart, stitch in two steps
and clip, just like for a double-pointed straight dart.
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What is a "dart seam?"
A "dart seam" is long, curved dart that starts at the hipline
of the side seam and extends diagonally to the bust. It is sometimes referred
to as a French dart. The pattern piece is designed so that the dart has
cut edges, rather than center fold line. This makes the dart easier to sew
and eliminates bulk. When the cut edges are brought together and the dart
is stitched, the result looks like a seam with a point at the end. Follow
the same marking and stitching procedures as for any other dart. A dart
seam is usually pressed flat on one side, then open for most of its length
and flat at the tip.
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| How do I press darts?
As a rule, darts are first pressed flat, then open or to one side as indicated
in the pattern instructions. Normally, vertical darts are pressed towards
the center and horizontal darts are pressed downward. Occasionally, the
sewing instructions will tell you to slash the dart along the fold line
and then press it open. This is done to give a smoother appearance.
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